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MEET ISABELLE GUICHOT
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
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Van Cleef & Arpels, established in Paris in1906, is one of the world�s most celebrated and historic master jewellers. Van Cleef & Arpels is associated with major decade defining innovations in 20th century jewellery, both technical, like the Invisible Setting, and aesthetic, like the 1950s Zipper necklace. Gold has played a central role in VCA style, as in the Padlock motif, the springy snake chain, inspired by wartime gasmasks, the 1930s honeycomb �Ludo� gold bracelets, or the jewelled box evening bag, the Minaudiere. Today the company, owned for the past few years by Richemont, is being led into the 21st century, by CEO Isabelle Guichot.
�There have always been two or three major themes of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels, in which gold was, and is, a vital element. One is the idea of the Garden of Eden, the vegetal world. The second is Couture, its textiles and details, the zipper, tassels, knots, bows, lacework. The third of course is the �serti mysterieux�, or invisible setting. Today, we are revisiting these themes that are part of our heritage. We have just launched the Hawaii collection, big, exotic flowers in gold and semi-precious stones, very Fifties in feel.
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�The brand is about very real excellence, and undisputed craftsmanship, which is reflected in superb and technically innovative goldwork. Textured gold and special gold decorative effects have always been a speciality, especially during the World War II when gems were scare. The Zip necklace is a masterpiece, both aesthetically and technically. Van Cleef & Arpels has been dramatically revamped over the past four years. We have expanded our retail network, enormously, greatly enlarging our clientele, and our design team regrouped three years ago. The results are exciting. Design wise, we needed to become more colourful, which is beginning to happen now.�
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