Gold Inspirations : Jewellery Style Magazine
Theo Fennell
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Theo Fennell
London-based designer-jeweller Theo Fennell celebrates the 21st anniversary of his successful business. Known as a celebrity, or society jeweller, Theo Fennell specialises in witty, sculptural silverware, luxury watches and fine jewellery: distinctively modern with an underlying layer of classical and traditional references. As he tells goldinspirations, it is a style that relies on the richness and subtleties of gold, cleverly balanced with coloured gemstones.
?After art school, I started in the trade, as a silversmith and I loved the material, I loved the craftsmanship, the sculptural element. Then one day someone brought in an 18 carat gold champagne flute.
?This gave a whole new dimension to my work. Silver is an accessory but gold will always be the main feature. There is a natural divide: silver should be freestanding and utilitarian, but as I realised then, the prime function of gold is wearability. Once that hit home, I began to see the possibilities of gold everywhere. Although, at that time we were still in the era of nasty 9 carat gold gate bracelets and St Christophers. There was no choice, then people started going abroad, to Italy, and they began to look for, and appreciate, 18 carat gold.
?When we first starting selling 18 carat gold, every competitor said we were mad. But the work I was doing then used such large areas of gold, it needed that colour and richness. And I had become interested in ancient and classical jewellery, in Elizabethan and Renaissance jewellery, and I loved the versatility of gold. Gold made everything possible for me, every finish, style, design. I use 22 carat for a very Byzantine or Renaissance look. I don?t think gold should be bastardised, or hollow electroformed. I like gold to be heavy, it should have its own weight and integrity.
?I soon discovered that gold is an extraordinary medium to work in. After all, many men have died for this yellow metal, with all its romance, emotion, longevity. Gold occupies a strange, rare, menacing, sexy place in everyone?s mind. From terrifying tales of the Conquistadors to the open-air, lightness of phrases like ?heart of gold,? ?good as gold?, ?gilded youth.? As an adjective, it is never detrimental. It comes down firmly on the side of good, precious, heart warming and unique.
But for me, gold is absolutely essential, a vital part of the Theo Fennell style. Gold is an intrinsic part of our most popular collections. I like to think that we?re eclectic in style, from a real minimalist design like the Tod to the overtly baroque, like the crosses. I love the opulence of gold. People have a strange idea about taste and opulence; a gold dinner service today might be considered the most overt opulence, but the Georgian period, which we hold as the apogee of taste and refinement was exactly the time when people started gilding things.
?The central focus of the Theo Fennell style of goldwork is its craftsmanship, the modelmaking, fine chasing, enamelling. And its wearability by a broad spectrum of people. I am very hands on, I design, I liaise closely with a fantastic team, our workshop, and with clients. This is an exciting time, I?m more excited on a day to day basis than ever before. And we are making more one-off bespoke special commissions, especially in gold, as clients search for something different. For me jewellery is a celebration, I would hope that our jewels are always worn in celebration.?
theo fennel, jeweller, silverware, luxury watches, jewellery, 18 carat gold,
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