STYLE LETTER ITALY
Gold and jewellery between design and ornament
INTRO
For a long time the design world has pretended not to see jewels,
says Silvana Annichiarico, curator of the Triennale permanent
collection. It has relegated them to the limbo of the ornament, the
infamy of the unique piece, the gratuitousness of decoration. In
the effort to expunge the cliché of this presumed
antinomy between jewellery and design, an exhibition at the Palazzo
della Triennale in Milan ‘Il design della
gioia’, set out to reveal the rare world of the
jewellery created by professionals used to dealing with the
broadest field of architectural planning and design, and outlines
possible new paths of expressing beauty.
Palazzo della Triennale (www.triennale.it), V.le Alemagna 6, Milano â€" NB also add this info to’ where to buy’ page
PG 1
Leading Italian architect and designer, Mario Bellini (born in
Milan in 1935) graduated in 1959 from the Architecture School in
Milan, where he still lives and works today. Since the
1980’s Bellini has worked chiefly as an
architect in Europe, Japan, the USA and the Arab Emirates.
For Bellini “My jewels are catalysts of the
beauty of the body. They bring out mobility and structure. I have
rethought the woman’s body in a new way, with
more curiosityâ€.
PG 2
Michele de Lucchi (born in Ferrara in 1951) studied at the
International Art University of Florence, where he obtained his
degree in Architecture and became the assistant professor at the
Faculty of Architecture. He left his teaching career in 1978 to
enter into the field of design; since the
1980’s he has lived and worked in Milan. His
pieces of jewellery are dynamic stratifications of geometry,
kinetic sculptures which invite a confrontation with unexpected
correspondences or effective divergences.
PG 3
Paolo Portoghesi (born in Rome in 1931) has always been "searching
for the lost architecture". Each of his buildings unites completely
contrasting elements in style, whether it’s
Romanticism and Classicism, Renaissance and Baroque, or Occident
and Orient, culminating architecturally in a new interpretation of
the modern style. “My jewels are
micro-architecture, archetypes of rather solemn ancient
architecture remarks Portoghesi, while reducing the scale of his
façade in his pieces of jewellery.
PG4
Ettore Sottsass (born in Innsbruck in 1917), one of the leading
members of the Memphis Group founded in 1981, began his career by
studying architecture at the famous Turin Polytechnic. After the
war he worked for a group of architects before setting up his own
Milan based office 1947, which he called the Studio. Sottsass
wonderful jewels are, as he himself has said,
“more or less a reproduction of what I think can
be done in architecture, formal exercise in architectural
compositionâ€.
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